Starring: Gregory Gadebois, Isabella Carre, Benjamin Lavernhe, Guillaume de Tonquedec, Lorenzo Lefebvre
Distributor: Palace Films
Runtime: 112 mins. Reviewed in Jan 2022
Reviewer: Fr Peter Malone msc
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On the eve of the French Revolution, the arrogant Duke of Chamfort fires his chef. In exile, the chef finds a new lease of life in catering for travellers, in effect opening the first restaurant.
French cuisine! Who can resist? And the title so apt. But, what we didn’t know about French cuisine is that the restaurant was a French invention of the 18th century. Before that, there were inns for travellers passing by, meagre meals, while the horses were tended.
In the meantime, in the palatial dining room and large kitchen of the Duke of Chamfort, elaborate menus of nine to 12 courses were being prepared for the duke and his guests. It is the duke’s opinion the plebians have no right to good food as they could not appreciate it. As the duke’s guests gobble and quaff, the chaplain gives them a little speech on gluttony as a cardinal sin (completely blind to his own arrogant pride).
The cook is Manceron, a big and burly man, (Gadebois, who could pass for Anthony Hopkins’ larger brother). He is devoted to his work, to his large staff, including his teenage son, Benjamin, and is dependent on the duke’s favour. There is a substantial scene where Manceron is brought before the guests for judgment, initially enthusiastic favour, then the priest denounces the specialty (a delicious) of truffle and potato, throwing it to the floor, and veering the discussion to mocking condemnation – and the firing of Manceron.
He is a sympathetic figure, dismayed at falling out of favour, eager to be reinstated. He lives with his son in an old barn with a long-time acquaintance, not wanting to cook. Then he encounters Louise (Carre), who tells him she made jams and wants to be his apprentice. He does not approve of women chefs and has to do all the menial work. However, she gradually finds her place in the kitchen.
Just as Manceron finds a new lease of life, the Duke announces he will stop by the inn. A huge menu is prepared and the place decorated for a celebration. When the visit doesn’t happen, there is a crisis for Manceron and complications arise for his relationship with Louise.
Along with changes in Manceron’s domestic sphere, things are changing rapidly in France. The year is 1789, and revolution is no longer just rumour. The poor and starving populace in the region concentrate their anger on the duke, and there is audience satisfaction when the duke is unmasked.
However, there is a more positive outlook for the film, the realisation that way stations for watering horses can be much more, with a set menu, elegant table, spacious room, personal waiters and attention, ordering of courses, slices of bread… And the makings of what we take for granted as restaurants. So, French cuisine and restaurants, Vive La France.
And the epilogue to the film (apart from a zesty flour fight between Manceron and Louise) is information that soon after this, the Bastille was invaded.
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